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Toronto: A Writer's Tour
by Robert J. Sawyer
Copyright © 2002 by Robert J. Sawyer
Torcon 3, the World Science Fiction Convention, to be
held August 28 to September 1, 2003, in Toronto, asked me to write
an article for one of their progress reports. I thought a
literary tour might be in order ...
(Update 2015: This was written 13 years ago for the Toronto Worldcon.
The ROM's
Dinosaur gallery has been completely renovated since then, and no longer
matches the one depicted in my novel
Calculating God;
the Park Plaza hotel has been renamed the Park Hyatt; the Chapters flagship
store on Bloor is gone; the Algonquin Square Table poetry workshop now meets
at Bakka-Phoenix rather than Hart House; Bakka itself is at a new location
(84 Harbord Street); and the World's Biggest Bookstore was demolished in 2014.)
Toronto is a great city for writers and readers, and in it
science fiction never takes a back seat to other forms of
literature.
Want a quick tour of some highlights? The main Torcon 3 hotel is
the Royal York; it has direct access to Union subway station.
Take a fifteen-minute subway ride north on the University line to
Museum Station, then head up to the surface. Here, at the corner
of Queen's Park and Bloor, you'll find the Royal Ontario Museum,
Canada's largest (and, incidentally, the setting for my novel
Calculating God
and Margaret Atwood's Life Before
Man). The ROM has the world's best collections of duckbilled
dinosaurs and textile art, and the largest collection of Chinese
artifacts outside China. (Don't miss the T. rex; it's in
the Discovery Gallery, not the Dinosaur Gallery.)
When you're finished at the ROM, exit and walk just north to
Bloor Street. At the corner, you'll find the Park Plaza Hotel.
Its Roof Lounge is a popular literary hangout, frequented by
novelists, editors, and journalists. Caricatures of famous
habitués adorn the walls.
Head east on Bloor Street a long block to the beautiful flagship
store for Chapters, Canada's largest bookstore chain. Note that
the Canadian prices on books are often less than the fair
conversion of the American prices; you might want to stock up on
new releases here.
When you leave Chapters, head back west along Bloor, then south
on Queen's Park, passing the front of the ROM again. (You'll
also pass one of Toronto's great embarrassments, the husk of the
McLaughlin Planetarium, once the finest in North America, now
closed, thanks to provincial funding cutbacks.)
Your next stop is Hart House, the wonderful old student centre at
the University of Toronto; it's named for Hart Massey, scion of
one of Canada's leading industrial families and a cousin of
Raymond Massey, who starred in the classic flick Things to
Come.
Hart House is, logically enough, on Hart House Circle, which is
south of Hoskins Avenue and west of Queen's Park. The Hart House
Library is worth seeing for its ambiance. It's always been a
favourite literary hangout. Canada's master ghost-story writer,
Robertson Davies, used to hold forth there; the Canadian Science
Fiction and Fantasy Foundation chose it as the venue for their
Phyllis Gotlieb Celebration; and SF writer
Terence M. Green had
his first date there with the woman who is now his wife.
Hart House is also where OSFiC, the late lamented Ontario Science
Fiction Club (which was involved with running the first two
Torcons), met in its later years. Many of us filthy SF pros with
fannish roots were often seen at its meetings, including authors
Robert Charles Wilson,
Tanya Huff, and myself (club moderator,
1981-82), Hugo nominated artist Taral Wayne, and editors Patrick
Nielsen Hayden and Don Hutchison. (Hart House is also home to
the Taddle Creek Writers Workshop, where I teach SF writing the
first week of July each year.)
On alternate Sunday afternoons throughout the academic year, the
Algonquin Square Table poetry workshop meets at Hart House; many
of its members write SF poetry, including Analog
contributors David and Carolyn Clink, and On Spec
contributors Mici Gold and Sandra Kasturi. Also a regular is
Susan Manchester, wife of best-fanzine Hugo-winner Mike
Glicksohn.
Head down Hart House Circle, and find number 39a, the famed
"Coach House." This is the home of the McLuhan Institute,
devoted to the study of pioneering Canadian communications
theorist Marshall McLuhan.
Then walk east into Queen's Park (the park, not the street), and look
at the British-style Ontario Parliament buildings to your south.
Continue east across the park, and you'll come out at Wellesley
Street.
Two blocks farther east, Wellesley crosses Yonge, the longest
street in the world. Head a half-block north on Yonge's west
side and you'll find yourself at Bakka, the world's oldest
science-fiction specialty store (Bakka [noun, myth]: In Fremen
legend, the weeper who mourns for all mankind).
There you'll encounter the elfin John Rose, longtime proprietor,
plus a staff who knows the stock inside and out; you'll get
honest recommendations to buy or skip a book, and you'll find
some British editions not available in the United States. While
you're at it, pick up copies of Bakka's own line of handsome
books, featuring reprints of classic Canadian SF, and copies of
the Canadian SF magazines On Spec and Parsec. And
check out the wall of fame: photographer Tom Robe's gallery of
writers who have signed at Bakka over the years.
Working at Bakka has long been a rite of passage for Canada's
SF&F authors. DAW mainstay Tanya Huff was manager for many
years, I worked there in 1982, Campbell Award winners Cory
Doctorow and Nalo Hopkinson have been on staff more recently, and
Michelle West, a fantasist for DAW and a columnist for
F&SF, still works there.
[Note: Bakka has moved since I wrote the above. It's now
at 697 Queen Street West, just west of Bathurst Street; Glad Day,
below, is still upstairs of 598 Yonge.]
Upstairs from Bakka is Glad Day, Toronto's leading
gay-and-lesbian bookstore. Pick up a copy of Michael Rowe's
Lambda-award-nominated anthology Queer Fear here for a
selection of great horror stories by leading gay and straight
genre writers including Edo van Belkom,
Nancy Kilpatrick, and
David Nickle. (For those who are interested, Canada's biggest gay
neighbourhood starts here at Wellesley and Yonge and continues on
to the east.)
Now, if you walk north on Yonge Street for four blocks, you'll
come to Bloor and Yonge, the crossroads of Toronto, and the most
expensive intersection in all of Canada. One block farther north
on the west side, you'll find Book City, one of Toronto's great
independents, and well worth a browse. Across the street, you'll
see the red pyramid of the Toronto Reference Library, a
startlingly modern building designed by Canada's leading
architect Raymond Moriyama (who also designed the Ontario Science
Centre, a lengthy trip from the Royal York, but well worth
seeing).
On the library's ground floor, you'll find the Canadian-authors
collection, enhanced with clipping files on all your favourite
Canadian writers. Upstairs is the Sherlock Holmes
room, a
recreation of the study at 221B Baker Street, housing a great
collection of Doyle first editions and Sherlockiana. Many a
science-fictional event has taken place at this library,
including the launch of the most-recent volume of Don Hutchison's
acclaimed Northern Frights anthology series.
In the lobby of the library (or at just about any other store or
pub in Toronto), pick up free copies of Now, eye,
and The Word. The first two are weekly arts-and-culture
newspapers, both with comprehensive events calendars; The
Word is a monthly guide to literary happenings in Toronto,
including readings, signings, and more.
Walk a block south to Yonge and Bloor, and hop on the subway
again, going three stops south on the Yonge line to Dundas
station. Just south of the station is Toronto's shopping mecca,
The Eaton Centre, but more interesting are the things you'll find
to the north. If you walk up one block, you'll come to Edward
Street on the west side. A half-block west along Edward takes you to
The World's Biggest Bookstore. It isn't really the world's
biggest anymore, but it was in the late 1970s, when it first
opened. Indeed, it was Earth's first book superstore: Barnes
and Noble, Borders, and others copied the idea from it. Science
fiction takes pride of place here; it's the best-selling fiction
category in the store, and the copious SF shelves, appropriately,
are the first ones on your right as you come in.
Once you're finished at World's Biggest, head back out to Yonge
and go one more block north to Elm Street. It's worth ambling in
a half-block to gaze at the facade of The Arts and Letters Club,
a private, members-only club that historically was the hangout of
Canada's great authors and painters. If there ever was a
Canadian counterpart to the Algonquin Round Table, it was within
these walls. But, in typical Canadian fashion, genre fiction is
as welcome as the more highfalutin stuff here; the
Crime Writers of Canada hold their open meetings at the club on the first
Thursday of each month (drinks at 6:30; meeting, usually with a
great speaker, at 7:00; if you're still in town on September 6,
feel free to drop by).
Hungry yet? Toronto's most famous steakhouse, Barberian's, is
right across the street from the Arts and Letters Club (the
restaurant is named after its Armenian owner, by the way, not the
table manners of the clientele). Toronto's writers often
celebrate a sale or an award here.
There are many other great literary sites in Toronto. If you
like walking tours, you might order a copy of Writer's Map of
Toronto by John Robert Colombo
(who edited the first Canadian
SF anthology, 1979's Other Canadas); it's a bargain at
Cdn$6.00 postpaid from Colombo & Company, 42 Dell Park Avenue,
Toronto, Ontario M6B 2T6. Among other things, it'll show you
how to find 997 Briar Hill Avenue, where
A. E. van Vogt wrote most of Slan.
Also a great reference is the book Toronto: A Literary
Guide by Greg Gatenby, artistic director of Toronto's
Harbourfront International Festival of Authors, the finest
literary festival in the world (held in late October each year;
again, in Canadian fashion, it's long embraced SF writers:
Ursula Le Guin, Torcon 3 toastmaster Spider Robinson, myself, and
many others have read there). This 622-page compilation is just
Cdn$19.95; the publisher is McArthur & Company, and Canada's
leading online bookseller, Chapters.ca, will ship it anywhere in
the world.
And speaking of reference, although there's little to actually
see here, if you've been trying to track down an obscure work of
SF or an old fanzine, drop by The Merril Collection of Science
Fiction, Speculation and Fantasy, the world's largest
public-library collection of SF, named in honour of the great SF
editor Judith Merril, who founded it.
The stacks are no longer
open for public browsing (a real pity), but the cheery
librarians, led by Lorna Toolis, will happily get any specific
item out for you. Many fine readings and book launches have been
held here, sponsored by Toronto's highest-profile fan group, The
Friends of the Merril Collection. Also meeting there regularly
is Toronto's current SF literary club, The Space-Time Continuum.
I hope you have a great time in Toronto.
Robert J. Sawyer is a best-novel
Nebula Award winner and a
six-time Hugo Award nominee. His novel
Calculating God (Tor) was named the best SF novel of 2000 by The
Rocky Mountain News and Borders.com.
More Good Reading
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Random Musings index
Encyclopedia Galactica entry on Canadian Science Fiction
Ten recommended Canadian SF novels
Northern Lights: ten years of news notes about Canadian SF authors.
Entry on Rob from Canadian Who's Who
My Very Occasional Newsletter
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